The Savoie region of France was the original homeland of the Savoy dynasty, who became the first rulers of a newly united Italy in 1861. From their strongholds amidst of the highest peaks in the Alps, the Savoy began expanding a thousand years ago on both sides of the divide, into what is now France and Italy but what was then a myriad of small feudal states.

The modern unity of Italy – some 1400 years since the fall of the Roman Empire, the last time the Italian peninsula was united – was by no means a certain historical outcome. Indeed, had the Savoy monarchy renounced their plans to unify Italy through the annexation of Lombardy and later Veneto, in place of “Italy” we might now have a transalpine “Savoy-Kingdom of Sardinia”, which would include some of the most beautiful terrain in the Western Alps from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean Sea at Nice.

Recently, contributor Enrico Santangelo ventured over the present-day border to explore two of the main towns in the splendid Maurienne valley, close to the wild Parc National de Vanoise. This is his tale:

From Bardonecchia town centre (90 Km/1h by car from Torino bypass/ motorway A32) in Italy we traveled to St. Jean de Maurienne, via Fréjus-St. Michel de Maurienne, Savoy.

On August 4, 2011, nothing seemed more suitable than having a glimpse at the region bordered by the Alps between Fréjus tunnel and Mont Cenis. My companion (= “copine”) and I followed the N543 highway straight up to St. Michel, avoiding the pretty insignificant town of Modane and the “route à péage” (toll route) of the inartistic, distracting A43 motorway….

St. Michel de Maurienne (visit time: circa 2hrs.). From hilltop, where two differently shaped medieval towers stand out (”la tour ronde” and “la tour carré”), one may enjoy a sweeping view of the Arc valley (from the name of the river crossing the town) and of St. Michel town centre. The “vieux borg” (old town) is surrounded by a group of sixteenth-century buildings, situated at a stone’s throw from the “paroisse” (parochial church), housing six wooden altars along its three late Renaissance St. Peter’s Basilica-like naves, with a dome at the transept crossing. As in the majority of alpine churches, wood - cheaper and warmer – was preferred to marble for the construction of altars. Near the church, the “Espace Alu” (aluminum museum) is also worth a visit. It exhibits the history of the aluminum mines in the region and displays a unique collection of objects and jewelry in the “alu boutique” (http://www.espacealu.fr/musee-presentation.htm).

Have a look at the “Mairie” (Town Hall) on your way back.

St. Jean de Maurienne (visit time: circa 6 hrs.). Following the N543 highway, we arrived at St. Jean de Maurienne (http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne), where every year the “Fête du pain” (Bread fair) is celebrated on August 4. This is a sort of homemade bread competition, during which variously-shaped crunchy and crusty bread loaves (including the world-renowned Queen of French bread: “M.me La Baguette”) are blessed by the bishop of St. Jean – through the “typical” St. John the Baptist’s blessing – and then freely distributed to citizens and tourists.

Apart from the yummy bread-making attraction, the visitors’ curiosity may also be attracted by the Hôtel de Ville (a posher name usually applied to the “mairie” of bigger towns), the bishop’s palace, the church of Nôtre Dame, the Cathedral and cloisters and even by the history of… St. John’s blessing of the bread. The catholic-clerical three-finger blessing apparently relates to St. John’s the Baptist’s three severed fingers, smuggled into Europe by St. Thecla in the first century AD (see The Golden Legend – The Decollation of Saint John Baptist, at http://www.catholic-forum.com/saints/golden260.htm); the three relics are still on display in St. Jean’s cathedral.

The Cathedral has three naves with chapels, presbytery and a choir running along the apse wall. The adjoining fifteenth-century cloister is beautifully adorned with rose bushes; the façade however is nothing more than an eighteenth-century juxtaposed porch. The wooden choir with its fifteenth-century carved walnut stall seats and benches is quite remarkable, displaying underneath the typical medieval “misericordiae” (misericords = acts of mercy). Each member of the local clergy holding a stall in the Cathedral chapter might even have the chance to discreetly show one of his (confessed and indulged for) weaknesses/sins by having his lifting seat symbolically carved underneath. For a brief description of misericords (in Britain) see  http://content.yellowgrey.com/ms/a_handbook_of_medieval_misericords.php.

The seventeenth-century Bishop’s palace is used as an exhibition hall and a museum. If you are into cutlery you might be interested in visiting the Opinel exhibition of knives and table hardware, and discovering the secrets of a family entirely devoted to what has become a national emblem. The museum part of the palace is a permanent collection of pictures, costumes and objects related to the Maurienne county (“cradle” of the house of Savoy with its long line of Humberts and Amadeuses), the Savoy duchy and the Savoy-Kingdom of Sardinia. The wall picture of the ancient Savoy state illustrates the transalpine vocation of its rulers.

The left-nave portal of the Church of Nôtre Dame, just beside the right nave of the Cathedral, is worth a mention due to its fine white marble embrasure with thin columns and beautifully sculpted capitals.

We decided to conclude our delightful St. Jean and “Fête du pain” (Bread fair) experience with a glass of fine Savoie red wine. The Mondeuse “cépage” indeed intrigues the taster’s palate with its fresh red berries and spicy flavors.

Santé et Bonheur avec du pain and du vin de Savoie!

Milan is a peculiar city. It does not seduce, it does not conquer its visitors at first sight. Many times you can be surprised by discovering an unexpected profile, but after a few steps this magic atmosphere seems to disappear. It is difficult to understand Milan because of its many “secrets”, often hidden in private courtyards, which remain unknown even to native Milanese. Its richness can be admired, for example, inside a building that apparently looks like any other. Milan history is often hidden behind a small invisible door and you have to read between the lines in order to discover it.

Here you can find a fascinating itinerary, suited both to those people who visit Milan for the first time and to those who have been living in the city all along. Our guide will be the Italian poet Alda Merini and our destination, the Navigli canals.

The Navigli. They can be considered the heart of Milan. The first miles of Naviglio Grande were constructed in 1179, while Bertola da Novate began developing the Naviglio Martesana in the 15th century, under the commission of Milan Duke Francesco Sforza. The inhabitants of Milan are very proud of this system, because the creation of 90 miles of canals took only 35 years. The works were completed in 1475, and just a short time later, Leonardo Da Vinci ideated a system of locks that would enable navigation between Lake Como and Milan.

There were many other works during the centuries, up to 1805 when Napoleon completed the Naviglio Pavese: a network of fully navigable channels was created that linked Milan with Lakes Maggiore and Como and the Mediterranean sea. Milan Cathedral owes a great deal to the Navigli: the marble used to build it was carried through the canals. In the second half of the 19th century, the canals lost their key role in transportation. The final blow came when cars began to be used. During the Fascist period, the internal section was covered with asphalt and the new roads took the name of Cerchia dei Navigli. Today the Navigli area (with its still visible canals) is a dynamic social center for the city, with many cafés, pubs and restaurants lining the canals.

Alda Merini. All throughout her life, this poet was very close to the Navigli, whose slow flow was a faithful companion for her poetical works. Alda Merini was born in the Navigli area and lived most of her life there, especially from 1986 to her death in 2009; the final period of her life was characterized by significant public recognition and an extensive artistic production.

Forget for a moment the typical Milanese Happy Hour scene or the Saturday night atmosphere along the Navigli; rather, come here in the morning, possibly a foggy one, to experience the canals as they once were. Visit one of the bookshops, where you can purchase – for 7-20 euros – one of Alda Merini’s poetic collection such as L’altra verità (Bur ed.), Superba è la notte (Einaudi), Canto Milano (Manni) or Eternamente Vivo (Frassinelli).

The Navigli are a few minutes walk from the Porta Genova subway stop. You can enjoy a very pleasant stroll from Naviglio Grande to Ripa di Porta Ticinese, visiting the characteristic narrow streets, and stopping somewhere to read a poem. You can wander, discover the antiquarian bookstores, the craft shops and the typical old houses of the canal area.

Along the itinerary you can reach via Mangone, where the poet was born, and in Ripa di Porta Ticinese, you can stop in front of the building at number 47. Beginning in 1986, Alda Merini lived at the second floor of this house, full of old books and cats. Just a few meters beyond is Chimera – a favorite café-library haunt for the poet, the perfect spot to read some of her poetry.

“Returning to Milan at night is so beautiful. I would only leave the city to go to heaven. But perhaps, even from there, I would miss my home.” (Alda Merini from Corriere della Sera, 2003)

Last but not least, you can reach via Magolfa 32 and enter the former tobacco factory recently turned into Casa Merini – Atelier della parola giovane. Dedicated to the great poet, this museum recreates her house at Ripa di Porta Ticinese, with her personal objects, her piano, desk, cigarettes and ever-present lipsticks. Here one can make a real journey through her life and verses. The ground floor of the Atelier is often used for youth poetry workshops.

» Love Lessons. Selected Poems by Alda Merini.
» Milan Itineraries

(first impressions of a young American, circa 1999)

Bella Milano or Milan the Mistake? ‘A question not to be asked,’ Falstaff (Shakespeare’s fat comical knight) would say. Why would a mountain-loving, outdoorsy person like me choose to live in a flat, industrial city? Is there something in the air here that leads me to do the crazy things I do, like hiking from one country to the next knowing that I would have to hitch home, and fast, to get to work on time the following day? Actually, there is a lot in the air here that I would probably not wish to know about. But what appeals to me about this city, disregarded by tourists, maligned by other Italians and even many Milanese, what is it that would make an adventurous person want to reside here? I don’t know, perhaps I’m simply out of my mind. Though there may be a little more to it than that, because I feel the city’s energy and creativity relates directly to the energy and creativity involved with exploration and freethinking. Milan is a city whose beauty must be actively uncovered; it is not an obvious ‘museum’ like Florence nor a monumental feast like Rome. As in the mountains, where one should really venture off road in order to appreciate the wilderness, in Milan one must explore a bit beyond the norm in order to find the most interesting parts of the city.

Milan is a mistake in the sense that, unlike practically every other city, town and village in Italy, Milan has no natural border or protective boundary. No castle on the hill, no river running though the city, no great walls surrounding the old center, no old center, really, thanks to the destruction of WWII, niente, nulla, nada. Totally flat, with no natural waterways, hardly any parks worth mentioning, and one apartment complex after the other. Horrendous traffic, no pedestrian areas of the city, no compact city center, horrible pollution, cold nebbia (fog) enveloping the city all winter long, unbearably steamy summers, mosquitoes until Christmas and no screen windows anywhere (not yet invented apparently). My list of gripes goes on. But I have to admit the following: Milan was founded as ‘Mediolanum’, Latin for ‘Middle of the Plain’ and grew up as a great trading center, a natural meeting place for those just coming over the Alps or coming from the Mediterranean or Adriatic seas. Today it is still a great center of international business, more important than Rome. While there were no natural waterways, the industrious natives constructed canals in the 12^th century, building a complex irrigation system for the fields and connecting the city with the Po River (and hence Venice and the Adriatic Sea). As for hills, the Milanese made their own hill from the destructed buildings from the Second World War, now the park of La Montagnetta. While there is no real ‘pedestrian-only’ zone, unfortunately, there are plenty of historic buildings, churches (the awesome Duomo, for one), museums and many interesting streets to uncover. Most importantly, there is a lot of life here, a lot of young people, as anyone who wants to find work in Italy will come here first. People work hard, but they also know how to play – many lively bars, clubs, a world-famous opera hall (La Scala), and two professional soccer teams are just a few of the city’s offerings. As for the traffic, and the weather, it is true that they can really suck. Living here can be demoralizing for anyone who relishes natural beauty, though it is easy to escape, even just for the day. The Western Alps are just two hours away, the Dolomites three hours, the Mediterranean Sea in Liguria two hours, Lakes Como and Maggiore less than an hour distant and the wine country of the Oltrepo Pavese, the Monferrato and Langhe one-to-two hours away from the city.

Furthermore, creative energy abounds here, even if Florentines or Romans dismiss greater Milan as an ‘urban wasteland’. Even Leonardo da Vinci chose Milan as his place of residence over Florence. Sick of boring papal and noble commissions, the genius moved north to work for the city’s third-rate autocrat, Lodovico Sforza, redesigning the city’s canals (the now lively Navigli district) as well as its defenses (Sforza Castle) and painted his famous ‘Last Supper’ fresco. Today, Milan combines the energy of northern Europe with the creativity of southern Europe. It is well known as one of the fashion capitals of the world, and is also a great center of design in general, of high technology and many other creative industries. Its bars offer unique ‘happy hour’ buffets, where one can eat quite well, enough for the entire night and in many cases at no extra charge beyond one drink (and some people don’t even get this…).

Milan as International City is in direct contrast however with its roots as ‘Lumbard’ capital. People from all over Italy and the world reside here, but there remains a certain closed atmosphere, not just from some older residents but in general, perhaps thanks to the months that nebbia encloses the city or the lack of geographical perspective. Milanese will often be the first to admit this. In addition, thanks to its position as #1 Italian City, some residents have acquired a certain New Yorkese attitude, a haughtiness not as intense perhaps as denizens of other world capitals, but one clearly visible at times. The ‘Milanese’ for example is often blamed for horrendous driving on the autostrada – if you go to pass a car and someone else tails you furiously, at 150 km an hour… this impatient bastard is classified as a ‘Milanese driver’. Not to say to say that there aren’t bad drivers from Cuneo or Cosenza as well, but the proverbial fast-paced-never-rest Milanese can have a negative connotation. Like ‘Yankee’, the nickname of clever, hardworking people from New England, USA, ‘Milanese’ also occasionally incurs a negative connotation.

The Milanese, at their best, are a gregarious, dynamic bunch. A certain ‘Most Difficult Man to Find in Milan’, a Ph.D. biologist-turned-fitness instructor/house painter/skydiving coach (who left the university setting disgruntled with the bureaucracy) is among those who, despite an insane work schedule, manages to get away for the occasional ski weekend or Asia fling. A Garfagnana native and his Japanese girlfriend, both equally bombarded by work, occasionally get a chance to meet up at their local bar, an excellent microbrewery, or head down to his family’s farm for a feast. Notwithstanding his tiring work duties, a talented carabiniere sings with a Hispanic-American choir, plays trombone in a Big Band and in a carabinieri group, and makes surprise musical appearances elsewhere. A young workaholic lawyer took the time to learn wakeboarding and became so enthused by the sport that she is now helping her brother start an extreme sportswear company. E così via…(and so forth…)

Read a good guidebook to find out about the best bars, restaurants etc., be sure to get a good map or better yet befriend a Milan resident who can take you around (you may still want the map). The Corso di Porta Ticinese is the lively gateway to the Navigli, with the adjacent rare greenery of the Parco delle Basiliche, a park between the churches of Sant’Eustorgio and San Lorenzo. Chinatown, Via Paolo Sarpi, has some excellent restaurants. Walk past the understated wealthy residences of narrow Via Santa Marta and view the very particular collection at the Museo Poldi Pezzoli on Via Brera. Shop the ultramodern megastores on Corso Vittorio Emanuale II. Sit and relax in Caffè Pusterla on Via dei Amici, or one of the many other historic streetside cafés throughout the city. See if you can walk faster than everyone else on a particular stretch of sidewalk. Walk through the Roman Arch at the end of Corso di Porta Ticinese around 3 in the morning and take in the bongo beat, this post renown for its late night drumming (and neighboring residents for their complaining). Climb up to the top of the Duomo, and regard the statue-saint that blesses the nearby Torre Velasca, a modern skyscraper. A benediction for this city of commerce?

There is a daily Milan, which is ordinary, chaotic, bustling, neurotic, always in a hurry. But this is only a small side of the city that is instead characterized by many hidden corners and surprises which only the most watchful people are able to catch. You can think for example about the southern part of Milan, in particular the area included between Corso di Porta Ticinese and Darsena. They are only 500 meters but there you can admire a never-ending succession of banister houses, small streets, living squares and glimpses of legendary times. Along this small itinerary – one of the areas nightlife people like most – you can find three of the most symbolic sites in Milan to which the inhabitants of the metropolis are really endeared.

The first one is the Basilica of Saint Lawrence (San Lorenzo Maggiore). Place of worship during the Roman period, the Basilica was built between the late 4th and the early 5th Century. It is one of the oldest churches in Milan and for this very reason this Basilica had a leading role in the whole history of the city, also sharing the most difficult and glorious days of Roman Milan. In front of the Basilica, a few steps away from the Medieval Porta Ticinese, you can find the Columns of San Lorenzo, that were built during the Roman period, too. They represent for all Milan citizens, especially for young people, an irreplaceable meeting point for summer nights. They are the ideal setting for those who wish to spend an evening, drinking a beer, chatting and sometimes watching or participating in amusing dances. This place make people understand the real spirit characterizing Milan nightlife and its vibrant social dimension.

Until 1935 the area between the Church and the columns was occupied by old buildings and the facade of the basilica was completely surrounded by old houses. The renovation plan decided to open the square, breaking down an extremely picturesque city corner, popularly known for its mysterious and legendary stories.

Continuing along Porta Ticinese towards Piazza XXIV Maggio, you can find the Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio, another ancient and precious example of the several Milan churches. Built in the 4th Century, its importance is mainly due to the legend of the Three Magi. It is said that the cart carrying the relics of the Magi inexplicably stopped. The wheels were heavy like boulders so that oxen and horses could not pass on. Thus the Bishop, Eustorgius, had to abandon the idea of preserving the relics of the three Saints in the Cathedral and had to build the Basilica outside the city walls.

Later on, Frederick Barbarossa sacked the famous relics, that came back to the Milan Basilica from Cologne – where they had been brought – only in 1906. Inside of Sant’Eustorgio there are a Romanic building and several frescoes attributed to Giotto’s school. The bell tower includes 6 bells and, in memory of the Three Kings, it is surmounted by a eight-pointed star instead of the traditional cross.

After crossing Piazza XXIV Maggio towards via Gorizia, you will find Darsena which is undoubtedly one of the most visited places in Milan. Point of convergence of Naviglio Pavese and Naviglio Grande, it constituted for many decades the harbor of Milan, a place dedicated to trade and, above all, an almost unique hydraulic system.

The Darsena was one of the most important Italian harbors, but its history was characterized by continuous upsets and variations. Developed in the 16th century, it suddenly became a symbol, Milan population identified with. In recent times, particularly in the 70s, the Dock represented the bohemian and popular heart of Milan, with its famous inns where people met till late at night to drink and talk about dreams and revolutions.

Nowadays, after escaping from a crazy project aiming at creating a car park, Darsena has known a spontaneous rebirth thus becoming a sort of “clandestine oasis”. In the meanwhile other works are waited in order to give new life to Navigli area. In spite of this difficult period, Darsena has remained a focal area in Milan and it is continuously visited both during the day and at night, when hundreds of people run across it along their night itineraries.

» Milan Tourism, the official website

What would have happened had Monferrato ruler Boniface I simply refused leadership of the 4^th Crusade and concentrated on the development of his court’s music and poetry instead? It would have been an audacious decision, and probably for the better, as Boniface and his lead troubadour Rambaud de Vaqueiràs met their untimely deaths on the battlefield in 1207.

Eight hundred years later, the spirit of Rambaud has returned to the splendid Monferrato region in the likes of an innovative classical music and wine festival called ‘Bacco & Bach’ (baccoebach.com). The efforts of two local monferrine, Valentina Fichelett and Ima Ganora, and Israeli musician Daniel Fradkin, should be celebrated, as it has been no small feat to organize a world-class event in a region that – notwithstanding its vicinity to Milan and Turin – is still largely unknown even to Milanese or Torinese. Add to the equation the most severe economic crisis in decades… and you have a heroic achievement far greater and nobler than the bloody ‘glory’ of the crusades could ever have attained.

As the festival name implies, emphasis is placed on classical music in combination with local Monferrato wines (fine Barbera, Grignolino, Moscato and a number of others, including some unique wines from very small production areas). Wine tastings are offered at each concert, and at the restaurant venues dinner can be enjoyed as well. Concert venues range from historic castles (e.g. Castello di Uviglie), lovely hill towns (e.g. Cella Monte), wineries (e.g. Cave di Moleto) and inns (e.g. Locanda dell’Arte). The festival will be launched this year on July 15^th (this Friday) with a virtuoso performance of Paganini and Tchaikovsky by Alexander Markov (violin) and Yury Martynov (piano) at the church of Santa Caterina in Casale Monferrato. This is one of two special fundraising concerts of the festival, as proceeds here will go towards restoring the baroque church and choir; the other fundraising concert will be held at Tenuta La Tenaglia on the 22^nd, with the goal of raising funds for the restoration of Chapel III of the Sacred Mount of Serralunga di Crea.

Concert tickets are very reasonably priced – 10€/ticket for most events – and should be reserved ahead of time on the festival website (some venues are quite small, and space is limited). In addition to the ‘Bacchus and Bach’ wine/music pairings, there will also be guided tours at a number of sites, for example of the castle of San Giorgio on the 16^th and of the intriguing infernot - excavated wine cellars, some quite artistic – in Cella Monte on the 23^rd. Finally, a number of other related cultural activities are planned throughout the festival period. See the website for more details; these include a exhibit by two young Italian artists, Serena Giribuola and Nicola Ballarini at Uviglie castle, and the opportunity to cruise through the serene hills and vineyards of the region in a vintage automobile (must be booked by July 15: http://www.baccoebach.com/din/EN/tiracconto.php?id_sto=20).

No doubt Rambaud – who lamented leaving behind the rich life of the court for the uncertain fortunes of the battlefield – will be pleased with the promising transformation of his Monferrato into a cultural center. Now that centuries of military travail have come to a close, the all-too-strategically-situated region can finally become a point of reference for modern chivalry – i.e. bravery and heroic deeds for the sake of peaceful, culturally-enriching endeavors – for Italy, Europe and beyond.

Recently, four intrepid travelers left Milan on a mission. Their goal: to make a premier web series that would highlight some of Italy’s most fascinating, lesser known sites and famed regional eno-gastronomy (i.e. “food & wine”). Little did they know, however, that while they were filming their own series, we were secretly filming them!!! So we decided to make our own web series on these travelers who were in turn making their own web series… make any sense? Neither to us – here, have another glass of Barbera…

Sul serio (Seriously)… we realized right off the bat (before leaving the first highway gas station, in fact) that we had four very special individuals at hand. We knew that they had the potential to achieve the greatest of our personal and professional aspirations: that of building cultural bridges between different peoples. For even if we can communicate at the speed of light these days, the truth is that we still don’t know each other very well. Stereotypes prevail, even between two seemingly close countries like Italy and the United States… That is, until now!

During their first Adventure in the Piedmont region of Northwest Italy, Mike, Stefano, Holly & Lily discovered (among other things) a model for sustainable living at the roots of the Italian ethos, a model that is also a dream for a better world. Fortunately for the Universe, we were there to capture them discovering it – live.

Stay tuned for updates…

Opens February 30^th at an Internet near you!

One of the nicest ways to arrive in Liguria is to take the train from Turin to Nice, or to Ventimiglia via the Colle di Tenda tunnel. Heading south through the Po river plain, the traveler is surrounded on three sides by the Alps: to the west, the sentinel Monviso range lines the horizon, while to the south, the 10,000-foot Maritime and Ligurian Alps loom ahead. After passing through the tunnel, the railway follows the rugged mountain gorges of the Roya valley into France, the route is lined with green forests and flora. As one approaches the sea the light becomes more intense and olive trees begin to replace mountain pines and larches. As the journey comes to an end near Ventimiglia, one can take in the blue Mediterranean in front of them and the snow-covered Alps behind them, not more than twenty miles away.

Last weekend we did the reverse trip, from the hill towns of the Italian Riviera up the Roya valley and through the Tende pass into Piedmont – to the same beech trees we’d hiked through a month earlier (http://www.northernitalywalking.com/2010/10/two-monuments-in-cuneo-porcini-alla-giudea/). The pleasant Mediterranean warmth to the south of the divide gave way to snow on the northern slopes, at fairly low elevation. Winter came early to the beeches of Palanfré this year: they weren’t quite ready to say goodbye to their fall colors…

Those heading to Vernante, below Palanfré, can look up painter Elisa Macario: http://elisamacario.it/Dipinti.htm. She is specialized in flowers, which abound on the surrounding mountain slopes once the snow has melted.

The town of Cuneo is not nearly as well known to tourists as other areas in the Province of Cuneo, which includes the Langhe (Barolo wine country) and the splendid Maira and Varaita mountain valleys. Its well-preserved historic center is however well worth an exploration, as there are at least two monuments that should not be overlooked. One is the synagogue, which dates back to the 1500s; the other is a plaque inscribed with one of the most powerful poems of the Italian Resistance.

Jews have resided in Cuneo at least since the early 15^th century, when a group arrived from neighboring Provence. The diversity of Italian Jews reflects that of Italy in general, varying from one region to the next and even within single regions. Cuneo is now part of the Piedmont region, but for centuries it was ruled by a dynasty whose possessions straddled the Alps: the ultra-Catholic Savoy, who severely regulated Jewish life. As occurred elsewhere throughout the Italian peninsula, though, Jews were well-integrated into town life, more so than in many other European countries. Notwithstanding the relative poverty of Cuneo Jews with respect to other communities, they still managed to beautifully decorate the synagogue interior in the 18^th century with a precious late Baroque holy ark, and after the liberation of the ghetto in 1848 they also embellished the exterior, adding a Hebrew inscription to the façade.

Even before WWII, many of Italy’s small rural Jewish communities had seen their population diminish with the emigration to the cities and the Americas. After the war, some found themselves with very few or no residents remaining. The Cavaglion family is the only Jewish family living in Cuneo today; they are doing the best they can to keep their traditions alive, having recently completed an extensive restoration of the synagogue. They are also in the process of opening a Jewish cultural center and museum, and they hope to hold more religious functions here during the year in the future. At present, the synagogue is only open for Yom Kippur services, but can be visited upon appointment – visitors can contact Davide Cavaglion at cavaglionsnc@libero.it.

Jews have lived in Italy for over 2200 years and their contribution to society – from the Roman republic to the medieval city states all the way to modern Italy – has been significant. One of the most interesting facets is their gastronomic contribution. A number of plates throughout the peninsula are thought to be of Jewish origin, the most famous of which being the Roman-Jewish artichoke, carciofo alla giudea. In Piedmont, a new dish is currently in the making, which might actually take the name of porcini alla giudea… Actually, grilled porcini mushroom caps are already part of Jewish tradition, at least in Cuneo, since they can be found in the surrounding hills and mountains. Recently, though, a local Jewish chef became determined to make a new dish modeled after the original poverty of Italian-Jewish cuisine (e.g. in Rome, the story goes that Jews were the first to use artichokes and fennel in their cuisine, since these were considered ‘weeds’ by less poverty-stricken Romans). Hence there may only be a hint of porcini involved in the end, since these were (and still are) considered the ‘Rothschild’ of mushrooms (i.e. not exactly everyday fare). Stay tuned for news on the upcoming development of this dish!!!

The Cuneo synagogue could be viewed as a monument to peaceful interrelations between people of two different faiths, extending over many centuries, and to the hard work that Jews of Cuneo had to do in order to maintain their community and synagogue notwithstanding the various restrictions in place. An effort that was certainly worth it, when one considers the number of upright citizens that arose from the community over time, how many of these had a positive role in Cuneo, in Piedmont and beyond. Such labor reflects the inner, spiritual work that one must undertake in order to become a better person, to be able to reach out to others and the outside world.

The fascist racial laws of 1938 were quite unexpected, as there had been no entrenched anti-Semitism in Italy as in other European countries. While these laws ruined Jews economically, also forcing them to form their own schools, it wasn’t until Italy was occupied by its former allies in September of 1943 that the situation irreparably deteriorated, as had already occurred in other Nazi-occupied countries. There were massacres throughout Northern Italy; the first camps were formed, one of which quite close to Cuneo at Borgo San Dalmazzo; the first trains to the death camps of Eastern Europe departed at the start of ’44. While some Italians assisted the Germans in their roundup of Jews, many others helped them to hide or escape to Switzerland. This solidarity was especially strong in Cuneo. The Italian resistance to incoming German/Italian fascist forces started to grow beginning in the fall of ’43, especially in hilly and mountainous areas. Cuneo in fact became one of the first centers of the Italian Resistance: the Maritime Alps – so splendid, with their endemic flora and Mediterranean light – becoming the scene of numerous partisan (= resistance) actions. Enzo Cavaglion (Davide’s father) joined the partisans, along with many other Jews in Piedmont, fighting side-by-side other Italians in their attempt to disrupt Nazi/Italian fascist activities.

Enzo is now 91, but has a vigor and light to his eyes of a man decades younger. He joined one of the first partisan groups on September 12, 1943, that of Cuneo intellectual Duccio Galimberti – one of the leaders of the Resistance until his capture, torture and death by the fascists at the end of ’44. Piero Calamandrei, one of the writers of the Italian Constitution, later dedicated a poem to Galimberti to commemorate the anniversary of his sacrifice, which can now be seen on a plaque in the Cuneo town hall. The poem was conceived in response to a statement by Albert Kesslring, leader of Germany’s occupation army in Italy from ‘43-’45 and responsible for many of the partisan and civilian massacres that took place here during that time: when released from prison in 1952, Kesselring declared that he was not sorry for anything he had done – that Italy should in fact build him a monument for having saved their country from destruction! (He did save many works of art and prevented the destruction of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence… but that does not make up for the thousands of deaths caused under occupation.) Italians were outraged, and Calamandrei responded with his Lapide ad ignominia, recently translated into English largely thanks to Andrea Gaddini (www.andreagaddini.it/lapide_en.html):

A Plaque for Ignominy

You will get it
kamerad Kesselring
the monument you demand of us Italians
but it’s our turn to decide
the stone it will be built with.
Not with the charred stones
of the defenseless villages racked by your slaughter
not with the ground of the cemeteries
where our young comrades
rest in serenity
not with the untouched snow of the mountains
which for two winters defied you
nor with the spring of these valleys
which saw you run away.
But just with the silence of the tortured
Harder than any stone
just with the rock of this pact
sworn amongst free men
who of their free will gathered
for dignity and not for hatred
determined to redeem
the shame and the terror of the world.
If you wish to return on these roads,
you will find us in our places
dead and alive with the same commitment
a people serried around the monument
that is called
now and forever
RESISTANCE

One monument, indicative of centuries of peaceful relations between people of different faiths – a symbol of hope for other areas of the world – and of the work required to achieve such peace (inner and outer); another monument, dedicated to the defeat of the arrogance and cruelty of a destructive occupying force. Certainly there are other sites to be seen in Cuneo, but these two contrasting yet related ‘monuments’ are the ones that most affected me in my travels.

… a world away from the metropolis. The Parco Regionale di Montevecchia e della Valle del Curone (Montevecchia and Curone Valley Regional Park) is only 30min by train from Milan, so one could even consider coming here after work, depending on the light. Cyclists, hikers and runners alike delight in the clean air and in the splendid forested hills, passing active and abandoned farmhouses as they meander up the vineyard-covered hill of Montevecchia. Crowned by its sanctuary church, Montevecchia is clearly seen on the approach by train, as it is the first hill to rise above the Po river plain in the direction of Lecco. Local wineries have started making some fine wines (try the Viognier by Terrazze di Montevecchia), and there are a number of good restaurants along the Montevecchia crest – but to truly experience the area one should explore on foot or bicycle before settling in for an aperitif or lunch.

The 5:50pm train from Milano Centrale arrives in Cernusco-Merate at 6:17pm, at the base of the park. Hikers/runners should leave the train station from the back entrance (towards the hill), take a left and then the first right up Via Carlo Porta. Follow this road until it ends on Viale Europa (a busy road). Directly across the street is a small parking lot and a trail entrance to the park. After about ten minutes walking along this trail, take a left on a small path that crosses a stream and starts to ascend through the cornfields. After another 15-20min you’ll reach the asphalt road; follow this uphill to the sanctuary church and village. This is the quickest route to Montevecchia (1-1.5 hour’s walk from the train station); there is no way to avoid the road but there are nice views towards Resegone and Grigna mountains (above Lake Como) and across the Po river plain towards Milan, and on a clear day one can spy the curve of the Alps towards Monte Rosa and Monviso. For the descent: from the water spigot which you passed on your way up (near a park office), instead of going back the way you came to the left, head right down the stairs. There are good views up to Montevecchia; this trail/road is well-marked and leads you back to the Viale Europa parking area.

With more time/daylight one can make a loop from Montevecchia by continuing on the asphalt road past the village – the asphalt eventually becomes dirt, and a number of trails lead off to the right into the park. You might get lost, but that is half the fun (maps should be available at the park offices  – but you still might get lost). You’ll eventually hook up with the lower trail coming from the Viale Europa entrance. Allow for several hours hiking; you can make a picnic by purchasing cheese and wine from some of the producers in town.

Montevecchia is a favorite for cyclists. Road cyclists often arrive from Milan, following the Martesana canal path to the Adda river path, then up the Adda towards Lecco. They can then take their bikes back to the city on the train.

Enjoy an aperitif with local wine and cheese at one of Montevecchia’s bars. Attenzione with the imbibing – remember, you still have to make it down the hill to the train station or your car in the twilight!

Buona esplorazione in Brianza!

Explorers of Mont Avic Park can enjoy marvelous views of Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn, a variety of endemic flora and numerous alpine lakes. These photos were taken over a month ago; by now, the larch tree needles will be starting to turn orange, and the great spectacle of autumn will be on its way. Che spettacolo!