What would have happened had Monferrato ruler Boniface I simply refused leadership of the 4th Crusade and concentrated on the development of his court’s music and poetry instead? It would have been an audacious decision, and probably for the better, as Boniface and his lead troubadour Rambaud de Vaqueiràs met their untimely deaths on the battlefield in 1207.
Eight hundred years later, the spirit of Rambaud has returned to the splendid Monferrato region in the likes of an innovative classical music and wine festival called ‘Bacco & Bach’ (baccoebach.com). The efforts of two local monferrine, Valentina Fichelett and Ima Ganora, and Israeli musician Daniel Fradkin, should be celebrated, as it has been no small feat to organize a world-class event in a region that – notwithstanding its vicinity to Milan and Turin – is still largely unknown even to Milanese or Torinese. Add to the equation the most severe economic crisis in decades… and you have a heroic achievement far greater and nobler than the bloody ‘glory’ of the crusades could ever have attained.
As the festival name implies, emphasis is placed on classical music in combination with local Monferrato wines (fine Barbera, Grignolino, Moscato and a number of others, including some unique wines from very small production areas). Wine tastings are offered at each concert, and at the restaurant venues dinner can be enjoyed as well. Concert venues range from historic castles (e.g. Castello di Uviglie), lovely hill towns (e.g. Cella Monte), wineries (e.g. Cave di Moleto) and inns (e.g. Locanda dell’Arte). The festival will be launched this year on July 15th (this Friday) with a virtuoso performance of Paganini and Tchaikovsky by Alexander Markov (violin) and Yury Martynov (piano) at the church of Santa Caterina in Casale Monferrato. This is one of two special fundraising concerts of the festival, as proceeds here will go towards restoring the baroque church and choir; the other fundraising concert will be held at Tenuta La Tenaglia on the 22nd, with the goal of raising funds for the restoration of Chapel III of the Sacred Mount of Serralunga di Crea.
Concert tickets are very reasonably priced – 10€/ticket for most events – and should be reserved ahead of time on the festival website (some venues are quite small, and space is limited). In addition to the ‘Bacchus and Bach’ wine/music pairings, there will also be guided tours at a number of sites, for example of the castle of San Giorgio on the 16th and of the intriguing infernot - excavated wine cellars, some quite artistic – in Cella Monte on the 23rd. Finally, a number of other related cultural activities are planned throughout the festival period. See the website for more details; these include a exhibit by two young Italian artists, Serena Giribuola and Nicola Ballarini at Uviglie castle, and the opportunity to cruise through the serene hills and vineyards of the region in a vintage automobile (must be booked by July 15: http://www.baccoebach.com/din/EN/tiracconto.php?id_sto=20).
No doubt Rambaud – who lamented leaving behind the rich life of the court for the uncertain fortunes of the battlefield – will be pleased with the promising transformation of his Monferrato into a cultural center. Now that centuries of military travail have come to a close, the all-too-strategically-situated region can finally become a point of reference for modern chivalry – i.e. bravery and heroic deeds for the sake of peaceful, culturally-enriching endeavors – for Italy, Europe and beyond.
